Russian cultural code in fashion

5 мар.

At the end of 2023, the slavic bimbo trend went viral on social networks: girls filmed videos in fur coats, Orenburg or Pavlovo Posad shawls, or fur hats, and sang along to Katya Lel's long-forgotten song "Moy Marmeladniy".

To get more views, the recording locations were famous Russian tourist spots, and food associated with Russia (baranki, caviar, etc.) was added to the frame.

In Russia, fairy tale films (By the Pike's Command, The Little Humpbacked Horse, The Flying Ship, etc.) and films based on Russian classics (Eugene Onegin, The Master and Margarita) or about Russian classics (The Prophet. The History of Alexander Pushkin) are breaking box office records.

Modern Russian fashion brands collaborate with the country's leading museums and state-owned companies. Such collaborations help preserve Russian cultural heritage, attracting the attention of a wide audience.

Tvoyo х State Tretyakov Gallery

12 storeez х State Tretyakov Gallery (for the exhibition "Adherents of Red. Malyavin & Arkhipov")

Sela х Mosfilm

Sela х Soyuzmultfilm; Monochrome х МKhТ; Incity х Roskosmos

Elements of traditional Russian costume

Folk traditions are one of the key sources of inspiration for designers and fashion houses. Elements of traditional Russian costumes reflect the rich history and culture of Russia, and also emphasize its uniqueness and originality.

A sarafan is a long sleeveless dress worn over a shirt (long blouse) - a symbol of feminine beauty and strength. Over time, sarafans have become quite diverse in style, material and decor. Depending on the region and social status of the woman, sarafans could be simple and practical, or luxurious and richly decorated.

For example, peasants sewed sarafans from linen or cotton, while noblewomen preferred silk and velvet fabrics. The decorations on the sarafan also had their own meaning: embroidery, lace and patterns often contained symbols of fertility, prosperity and protection from evil forces.

The kokoshnik, a traditional headdress, has also inspired many designers who have interpreted it in modern collections. The kokoshnik is a semicircular or triangular headdress that is fastened to the head with ribbons or ties. It is made of various materials, including fabric, brocade, velvet and even metal. The kokoshnik is decorated with pearls, beads, gold threads and precious stones. It symbolized the married status of a woman and her belonging to a certain social class. Since the end of the 19th century, the kokoshnik began to lose its popularity. With the development of industry and changes in fashion, headdresses became more functional and comfortable. The kokoshnik remained an element of traditional clothing, used mainly in villages and at folk festivals.

I cannot help but mention the kokoshnik style tiara, which was popular among the aristocracy. Empress Maria Feodorovna was one of those who brought such jewelry into fashion. Kokoshnik tiaras were made in such a way that the precious stones could be easily removed and moved, for example, in a necklace.

The most famous kokoshnik tiara was made by the jewelry house Garrard in 1888 for the British Queen Alexandra. Later, the Queen Alexandra's Kokoshnik tiara was worn by Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth II and Queen Camilla.

Princess Eugenie wore the Greville Emerald Kokoshnik tiara with emeralds and pink diamonds when she got married. It was created by the jewelry brand Boucheron in 1919.

The kosovorotka is becoming a popular fashion item again thanks to the trend for ethnic and folk motifs. It is a shirt with several buttons at the collar that are positioned off to one side, not in the middle. In the past, kosovorotkas were worn by men of all classes, from peasants to aristocrats. Designers often use it in their collections, adding modern details and materials. The kosovorotka can be made of various fabrics: from classic cotton to silk or even denim.

The most unexpected element of Russian costume in the modern world is lapti (bast shoes). Fashion designers adapt the woven texture to urban life, making ballet shoes-lapti from fabric, leather, craft with latex or other materials.

Folk crafts and Russian designers

The color palette and ornaments typical for Russian culture are also reflected in fashion. Bright, saturated colors such as red, blue and gold have become symbols of Russian fashion.

Ornaments of folk crafts such as Gzhel, Khokhloma and Palekh are used in the design of clothing and accessories, giving them a unique and recognizable style.

Khokhloma is the most recognizable Russian craft in the world. At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, Khokhloma was exported to dozens of countries around the world from the Nizhny Novgorod Fair. The color palette - gold, red, black - is a metaphor for the warm and temperamental Russian soul.

At the end of 2024, the boutique Khokhloma x Alena Akhmadullina opened on the site of the Chanel boutique in GUM, which pleases Russians and foreign tourists with the modern design of various items: furniture, dishes, interior decor, clothing, jewelry.

Alena Akhmadullina in the clothes of her brands often uses Russian motifs based on fairy tales. Complex embroidery, bright colors and patterns take you to the world of magic and fantasy.

I enjoy wearing a sweater with a sly fox from Alena Akhmadullina Dreams:

Vyacheslav Zaitsev, known as the Red Dior, was one of the first who used folk motifs in his collections. Traditional Russian patterns, an abundance of fur and floral elements in a modern interpretation created a unique style recognizable all over the world.

Another famous designer, Valentin Yudashkin, also actively used Russian motifs in his collections. He gained worldwide fame after showing the Faberge collection in Paris during Haute Couture Week in 1991. The dress models were stylized as jewelry Easter eggs made by the jeweler Carl Faberge. Yudashkin is the first Russian fashion designer accepted as a member of the French Fashion Chamber of Couturiers and Designers. He was repeatedly responsible for the design of the uniform for the Russian Olympic team, created the uniform for the Aeroflot flight crew, participated in the development of dress uniform samples for the Russian army, and dressed the stars of Russian show business. His works are distinguished by their sophistication and refinement. The collections were inspired by Russian painting, ballet, and literature.

Denis Simachev is one of the brightest representatives of modern Russian fashion, whose collections refer to Russian cultural heritage through embroidery, appliques, and symbols. Simachev uses images of bears and matryoshka dolls, Khokhloma and Gzhel ornaments, Soviet symbols, quotes and images of Soviet cartoon characters.

Ulyana Sergeenko also uses Russian folk crafts in her work. The designer uses traditional patterns, Yelets and Vologda lace, Krestetskaya stitch, Gus’ crystal and various hand embroidery techniques.

Her collections are distinguished by exquisite details, luxurious fabrics and complex patterns that embody the spirit of Russian culture and traditions. The most recognizable model: a simple cotton dress with small flowers.

Russian trace in world fashion design

Foreign designers also found inspiration from Russian culture. Sergei Diaghilev played a significant role in popularizing Russian culture in the West. In 1906, he first presented Russian opera in Paris, and three years later — ballet.

Paul Poiret, inspired by the Russian Seasons and a trip to Russia, created the Kazan collection, the leading motifs of which were Russian ornaments and silhouettes. It included loose dresses in white and beige colors, decorated with embroidery with red threads.

Half a century later, in 1976, Yves Saint Laurent presented the Opéras — Ballets russes collection.

The bell skirts, cloaks with Cossack hoods, and round hats with fur trim were inspired by the heroines of Russian literature: Natasha Rostova and Anna Karenina.

In 1986, Jean-Paul Gaultier made a splash with his Constructivism collection, inspired by a book about Soviet avant-garde art. In particular, the drawings of Varvara Stepanova and Lyubov Popova. Jean-Paul decorated all his clothes with Cyrillic: the designer's first and last name were written in Russian letters on dresses, jackets, sweaters and skirts. Gaultier's idea allowed Cyrillic to settle in the list of trends for many years.

Ralph Lauren's 1993 winter collection:

Karl Lagerfeld couldn't resist elements of the national Russian style either. In December 2008, the Kaiser of fashion dressed Chanel models in kokoshniks, fur boots and strict "uniform" suits. The show, called Paris-Moscow, became an excursion into the history of Coco Chanel’s relationship with the Russians.